fem kratos cosplay build
It\'s time for me to make another build tutorial, so I\'ll start with the following: Finite element KRATOS!
I made this outfit for the 2018 expo in less than two weeks.
Here is what I will cover in this tutorial. . .
This is what you need to make this costume. . .
Let\'s start!
I purchased a faux fur rug from Amazon for around $15.
I put my fur on a male costume that I have, which is big for me, but you can put it on your own.
I went to the opposite corner and gathered them together, under the shoulder and above the chest.
Once I nailed it, I had a small buckle sewn inside with my hand.
Next, I go to the back and trim off the excess parts so that I have a flap similar to the cuitos fur cover.
Finally, I trimmed some of the components for shaping and used a high power vacuum cleaner to pull away any loose fur.
If you like this carpet, it can be a branch here: think about it.
I was thinking about making this with foam for the first time, but I realized I had to be in 1-
Because of the climate I live in, two years.
Next, I consider using pleather, but am sure it is not enough to bear the weight of the axe I intend to hang behind.
Finally, I decided to use vinyl, leather and PU leather (
Also known as artificial leather).
I created three rectangles with my mannequin, but it\'s easy to measure the length and height of these rectangles.
I cut the rectangle on the PU leather;
Then I cut a replica of the interior decoration vinyl.
I cut the interior decoration vinyl growth strips according to the diagonal pattern.
Once all the stripes are cut off, I weave them together and stick the edges down with gorilla hot glue before sewing.
Since the PU leather and upholstery vinyl are too thick, I had to manually stitch the vinyl deviation to the edge of pauldrons.
I broke four needles by doing this, so be sure to invest in heavy needles for this project.
For the \"bias band\" I cut out the strips and wrapped them around the edge of pauldrons.
After all the manual stitching was done, I expanded the Pauldron layer on the top with a spare shoulder pad;
Next, I placed the second layer slightly below the first layer and fixed it in place with super glue and hand stitching.
The last floor (3)
Put below the second I repeat the attachment process.
Now, I have formed Pauldron correctly (
The shoulder pad helped a lot.
I measured my bicep so I could add a strap to the third floor to wrap my arm around.
The top front and back of Pauldron are sticky with leather;
These leather pieces are cut into squares and then rounded in to work with U-
Like the body of quetos.
I cut a crack in the middle of each piece of leather so I can slip a belt under Pauldron.
As the belt is in place, I wrap it around my upper body and measure the number of belts I need to cut (
Big men\'s belts).
Finally, I added the bead work on the belt (
A bit feminine because it\'s a rule 63 Kratos)
My Baolong is done too!
Spartan skirt/waist leather kerritos has two layers of \"skirt\" in the Ares: a new beginning.
I started with a spartan dress tied to the waist leather/bodice.
I made a diamond shape with the bottom suitable for my hips and the top my waist size gradually became thinner.
I cut off two of them and sew them together. outside in)
Then let the side open so I can flip them out and finish the hem with jagged stitching.
This part of the skirt I use Pupi.
Next, I drew the position of the silver buttonhole and added these buttonholes using the buttonhole tool (and hammer).
For the Sparta strap, I cut 24 pieces of leather and stick it together until I have only 12 left (
This is to harden the vinyl I use).
I cut and weathered the bottom and then changed vinyl from Brown to Crimson using Angelus leather paint.
Finally, I alternately pasted these strips with gorilla super glue gel.
To resist the influence of the dark leather waist skirt, I used the frosted stone and circled the fabric.
I made the Nordic sewn \"skirt edge\" protective skirting with folds and brown fabric.
I cut the basic shape for both and then cut the pleats with various patterns (
I used dandruff too).
I first sew the biggest folds on the brown fabric and then slowly add more folds.
I used a tight-fitting zigzag stitch and a pair of jeans.
This is fairly fast as it looks to be placed at will.
The belt-pochesthe belt is made from an old shop.
I used bigger belts so I could cut them down and adjust the size myself.
This adds good weathering to the end, allowing me to play the positioning game.
The miniskirt is connected to the lowest belt by super glue on one side and velcro on the other.
For the pouch I followed this tutorial.
I connected the ash bag with fabric wrap and the ash bag slipped onto the top belt.
I decorated the belt with a hemp rope and painted the weathering.
Besides this axe, ice AxeI likes to make props. . . this dang axe.
There are so many small pieces that I still have some drawing details to add, but here is most of what you need to do. . .
I started with 3mm Sintra as my base.
I measured the axe so it could be in my biggest suitcase (
This is important for travel).
However, I handed the handle to Sintra for free and you can print out the version of the axe using any printer that zooms the image to a large size.
I carefully cut out my Sintra pattern with a tool knife/blade and gently polish the edges with loose sandpaper.
Then I used the reverse.
Fatigue mat (
It\'s basically 6mm foam in the closed room)
And copied the pattern using my Sintra handle as a template.
I sanded the foam and Sintra with sandpaper and then stuck the rough face of the foam to Sintra.
Basically, I put Sintra in the middle of two bubbles.
I took about 4mm EVA foam when I finished (
Purchase from TNT Cosplay supply)
Then hand me the axe blade freely.
I cut two of them and use them as the pattern for cutting two Worbla (
A self-adhesive thermoplastic).
Worbla was cut a little bigger so I could clip the axe foam in the middle.
I formed Worbla in heat (
Hot gun)
On the axe blade (
I put it on my hands)
Press everything together until the Worbla seams are fused.
I cut off any excess Worbla (
Don\'t throw these away, Worbla is reusable)
And continue to introduce foam in detail.
Regarding the foam details, I took a Dremel and carved the side, top, bottom, front and back of the handle.
I flattened the edge of Worbla (
They can be sharp.
And use a grinding bit to dig deep into the groove on the handle.
When I finished the first pass with de Lemel, I found the seam between Sintra and the floor mat very obvious.
So I took some Kwik seals (
Yes, silicone pipes)
Painted on the side of my handle;
Then I set it up for 12 hours.
When I came back, the Kwik seal was hard enough.
I did the second sanding and added more Kwik seals for the wood details (
Tilt and raise the side of the handle)
My polishing is done!
It\'s time to draw. . .
Uh, no.
Now I have to seal it up with two layers of wood glue.
I did this to make sure that any loose foam was glued to the proper position and to create a smooth surface for the painting.
I use plastic glue.
Immerse in black as the base color and then hand draw the props with acrylic paint.
I used the little shower ring for Rune (tiny ones)and pre-Glass gems.
For the axe rack, I used the KobraCast art of Worbla (
Supplied by Supplies)
A u-shaped bracket was created to mimic the tail and head of the World snake.
I attached this stand to the back of my Pauldron with spare PU leather and gorilla super glue.
Finally, I sealed my axe with a plasma.
A matte seal for the blade and the handle;
Then I tested the weight of my axe on my stand and everything was fine! Ok. . .
I did a lot of written descriptions in this tutorial, so here\'s a break: video!
Here are some of the items you need. . .
This is my test.
At the end of the video, I made some comments about the changes I performed the first time I wore the overall costume.
This is the full look!
There are some branch items that I changed and/or wore on this dress, as well as some items that I did not cover. . .
If you have any questions, please ask them in the comments.
For more tutorials, please visit my profile or check out my website: www. thermocosplay.
Good luck, happy handmade!
I made this outfit for the 2018 expo in less than two weeks.
Here is what I will cover in this tutorial. . .
This is what you need to make this costume. . .
Let\'s start!
I purchased a faux fur rug from Amazon for around $15.
I put my fur on a male costume that I have, which is big for me, but you can put it on your own.
I went to the opposite corner and gathered them together, under the shoulder and above the chest.
Once I nailed it, I had a small buckle sewn inside with my hand.
Next, I go to the back and trim off the excess parts so that I have a flap similar to the cuitos fur cover.
Finally, I trimmed some of the components for shaping and used a high power vacuum cleaner to pull away any loose fur.
If you like this carpet, it can be a branch here: think about it.
I was thinking about making this with foam for the first time, but I realized I had to be in 1-
Because of the climate I live in, two years.
Next, I consider using pleather, but am sure it is not enough to bear the weight of the axe I intend to hang behind.
Finally, I decided to use vinyl, leather and PU leather (
Also known as artificial leather).
I created three rectangles with my mannequin, but it\'s easy to measure the length and height of these rectangles.
I cut the rectangle on the PU leather;
Then I cut a replica of the interior decoration vinyl.
I cut the interior decoration vinyl growth strips according to the diagonal pattern.
Once all the stripes are cut off, I weave them together and stick the edges down with gorilla hot glue before sewing.
Since the PU leather and upholstery vinyl are too thick, I had to manually stitch the vinyl deviation to the edge of pauldrons.
I broke four needles by doing this, so be sure to invest in heavy needles for this project.
For the \"bias band\" I cut out the strips and wrapped them around the edge of pauldrons.
After all the manual stitching was done, I expanded the Pauldron layer on the top with a spare shoulder pad;
Next, I placed the second layer slightly below the first layer and fixed it in place with super glue and hand stitching.
The last floor (3)
Put below the second I repeat the attachment process.
Now, I have formed Pauldron correctly (
The shoulder pad helped a lot.
I measured my bicep so I could add a strap to the third floor to wrap my arm around.
The top front and back of Pauldron are sticky with leather;
These leather pieces are cut into squares and then rounded in to work with U-
Like the body of quetos.
I cut a crack in the middle of each piece of leather so I can slip a belt under Pauldron.
As the belt is in place, I wrap it around my upper body and measure the number of belts I need to cut (
Big men\'s belts).
Finally, I added the bead work on the belt (
A bit feminine because it\'s a rule 63 Kratos)
My Baolong is done too!
Spartan skirt/waist leather kerritos has two layers of \"skirt\" in the Ares: a new beginning.
I started with a spartan dress tied to the waist leather/bodice.
I made a diamond shape with the bottom suitable for my hips and the top my waist size gradually became thinner.
I cut off two of them and sew them together. outside in)
Then let the side open so I can flip them out and finish the hem with jagged stitching.
This part of the skirt I use Pupi.
Next, I drew the position of the silver buttonhole and added these buttonholes using the buttonhole tool (and hammer).
For the Sparta strap, I cut 24 pieces of leather and stick it together until I have only 12 left (
This is to harden the vinyl I use).
I cut and weathered the bottom and then changed vinyl from Brown to Crimson using Angelus leather paint.
Finally, I alternately pasted these strips with gorilla super glue gel.
To resist the influence of the dark leather waist skirt, I used the frosted stone and circled the fabric.
I made the Nordic sewn \"skirt edge\" protective skirting with folds and brown fabric.
I cut the basic shape for both and then cut the pleats with various patterns (
I used dandruff too).
I first sew the biggest folds on the brown fabric and then slowly add more folds.
I used a tight-fitting zigzag stitch and a pair of jeans.
This is fairly fast as it looks to be placed at will.
The belt-pochesthe belt is made from an old shop.
I used bigger belts so I could cut them down and adjust the size myself.
This adds good weathering to the end, allowing me to play the positioning game.
The miniskirt is connected to the lowest belt by super glue on one side and velcro on the other.
For the pouch I followed this tutorial.
I connected the ash bag with fabric wrap and the ash bag slipped onto the top belt.
I decorated the belt with a hemp rope and painted the weathering.
Besides this axe, ice AxeI likes to make props. . . this dang axe.
There are so many small pieces that I still have some drawing details to add, but here is most of what you need to do. . .
I started with 3mm Sintra as my base.
I measured the axe so it could be in my biggest suitcase (
This is important for travel).
However, I handed the handle to Sintra for free and you can print out the version of the axe using any printer that zooms the image to a large size.
I carefully cut out my Sintra pattern with a tool knife/blade and gently polish the edges with loose sandpaper.
Then I used the reverse.
Fatigue mat (
It\'s basically 6mm foam in the closed room)
And copied the pattern using my Sintra handle as a template.
I sanded the foam and Sintra with sandpaper and then stuck the rough face of the foam to Sintra.
Basically, I put Sintra in the middle of two bubbles.
I took about 4mm EVA foam when I finished (
Purchase from TNT Cosplay supply)
Then hand me the axe blade freely.
I cut two of them and use them as the pattern for cutting two Worbla (
A self-adhesive thermoplastic).
Worbla was cut a little bigger so I could clip the axe foam in the middle.
I formed Worbla in heat (
Hot gun)
On the axe blade (
I put it on my hands)
Press everything together until the Worbla seams are fused.
I cut off any excess Worbla (
Don\'t throw these away, Worbla is reusable)
And continue to introduce foam in detail.
Regarding the foam details, I took a Dremel and carved the side, top, bottom, front and back of the handle.
I flattened the edge of Worbla (
They can be sharp.
And use a grinding bit to dig deep into the groove on the handle.
When I finished the first pass with de Lemel, I found the seam between Sintra and the floor mat very obvious.
So I took some Kwik seals (
Yes, silicone pipes)
Painted on the side of my handle;
Then I set it up for 12 hours.
When I came back, the Kwik seal was hard enough.
I did the second sanding and added more Kwik seals for the wood details (
Tilt and raise the side of the handle)
My polishing is done!
It\'s time to draw. . .
Uh, no.
Now I have to seal it up with two layers of wood glue.
I did this to make sure that any loose foam was glued to the proper position and to create a smooth surface for the painting.
I use plastic glue.
Immerse in black as the base color and then hand draw the props with acrylic paint.
I used the little shower ring for Rune (tiny ones)and pre-Glass gems.
For the axe rack, I used the KobraCast art of Worbla (
Supplied by Supplies)
A u-shaped bracket was created to mimic the tail and head of the World snake.
I attached this stand to the back of my Pauldron with spare PU leather and gorilla super glue.
Finally, I sealed my axe with a plasma.
A matte seal for the blade and the handle;
Then I tested the weight of my axe on my stand and everything was fine! Ok. . .
I did a lot of written descriptions in this tutorial, so here\'s a break: video!
Here are some of the items you need. . .
This is my test.
At the end of the video, I made some comments about the changes I performed the first time I wore the overall costume.
This is the full look!
There are some branch items that I changed and/or wore on this dress, as well as some items that I did not cover. . .
If you have any questions, please ask them in the comments.
For more tutorials, please visit my profile or check out my website: www. thermocosplay.
Good luck, happy handmade!
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